Geng Xiaoyun, owner of Kunyuan restaurant in Beijing, has removed salt-baked chicken feet, or “phoenix talons,” from his menu due to a 30% price hike resulting from U.S. tariffs. Geng preferred American chicken feet for their superior texture and flavor, but is now sourcing from Brazil and Russia, which he finds unsatisfactory. He hopes to reintroduce American chicken feet if prices drop, contingent on stable political relations between the U.S. and China.
Recent tensions have worsened the trade situation, as both nations accuse each other of violating agreements made during a 90-day tariff pause in Geneva. Following President Trump’s remarks about China’s alleged breach of contract, the Chinese Commerce Ministry pointed to U.S. restrictions on AI chip exports as undermining their deal.
As a consequence of the trade conflict, American agricultural products are disappearing from Chinese markets. For instance, Home Plate, a suburban Beijing restaurant renowned for its American barbecue, stopped serving U.S. Department of Agriculture-grade beef, switching to Australian imports instead. This shift is due to the zero-duty status of Australian beef under the China-Australia Free Trade Agreement, in contrast to the significant tariffs on U.S. beef, which has increased in price by 50%. Liu Li, a long-time beef supplier, lamented that U.S. beef’s rich flavor and fat content are missed, adding that the price increase is prohibitive for many. Overall, the trade war continues to reshape the menu options available to consumers in China.
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